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This project has been set up with the free versions of those compilers and either compiler will work. The XC16 compiler is the newer one of the two and is the one that I use.
You can see a large portion of Microchips software downloads here. There are 21 PCBs that are required to create this project. The other PCB is the main control board and is the brains of the operation.
There is also a small pin breakout PCB that is included with each kit. The majority of these components can be found on eBay but there are a select few which may prove more difficult to find.
I have added a BOM to the zip file in step 1 which has each component, the required quantity, the price and the vendor where the component s can be purchased.
Now we need to acquire the materials that go along with the electronics. Here is a list of the materials needed to complete this project.
Where I'm from, stock measurements on materials are still in imperial units so I do switch back and forth between metric and imperial units in this instructable.
When I cut the material for the table I use imperial units, when I am modifying the table and drilling holes I use metric as you will see on my CAD drawings.
Use a combination of a table saw and a mitre saw to cut the rest of the pieces down to the sizes that you need if you choose to do it yourself.
As for the acrylic sheet, just find a local plastics supplier and get a quote from them. We're almost ready to start building! The last thing that we need to do is gather up some tools.
If you don't feel comfortable using a table saw, talk to a local carpenter and have them cut the wooden rail pieces for you.
They are really basic cuts so I would imagine that it would be a relatively cheap price. Below is a list of tools that we will use to construct the table and the PCBs if you are not building your own table, you will not need the majority of these tools.
Those are the tools that I had used to complete this project. You may be able to get away without some of the tools there, but it gives you a rough idea of what kind of work is involved.
Doesn't Apply To Fully Assembled Kit This step is already done for you Before we begin constructing the physical table, lets get the electronic aspect of this project in order.
There are a total of parts that need to be soldered onto the Master PCB, SMD pads that need to be soldered and through-hole pads. It may seem daunting, but just remember, you only have to do this once!
Even if it takes you three hours to complete, it's a one time deal. You will need to perform one extra step for the TLC's in order to solder the heatsink pads underneath them to the PCBs.
The best way to explain how to do it is with a video, so watch away! I do have a reflow station on hand and that is what I use, but I wanted to show in the video that it can be done with a heat gun or a hairdryer for those who don't have reflow stations It can also be soldered by heating up the thermal vias with a soldering iron.
See the last two photos in this step. The soldering process of the video below has been sped up 2x but you'll get the idea. Lots of flux, a small soldering iron tip and thin soldering wire are pretty crucial though.
The schematics, bill of materials and the parts list are all located in the zip file in step 1. The RGB pods are quite simple to assemble, whether you assemble them with the reflow method or by hand soldering, they aren't difficult.
There are twenty of them to do though, so it may take you an hour or two. Parts List For All 20 Pods. There are a total of 19 components per RGB pod, 17 of those components being surface mount packages.
They are quite simple to assemble whether you use the reflow method or do each pod by hand. The reflow method is really only necessary if you are assembling a large amount of RGB pods or have access to cheap solder stencils.
When I designed this kit, I specifically decided to use 2x4 IDC cables because of the simplicity to crimp the connectors to the cable.
With these cables, we can crimp all 8 connections in the connector at once, instead of doing it one by one for each wire like many other connectors.
This saves an enormous amount of time as there are 40 connectors that need to be crimped for all 20 RGB pods.
If you don't want to buy the proper tool, one can get away with using a pair of vice grips or an actual vice itself to crimp the connector to the cable.
Crimping IDC Connectors. We're going to make the LED rings right now as we need to use them in the next few steps for the layout of the table.
First, cut out a 71mm diameter wooden cutout for each LED ring that you will be installing on the edge of the table not counting the ball washers. For this table that number is eight.
Now grab your 24 LED strip and go to the end of it where the wire is sticking out. Remove a small piece of silicone just below the wire and route the wire through that channel so that it is sticking out the bottom of the strip.
If you don't like the look of the ring with a zip-tie around it even though it will be hidden under a diffuser on the finished table , put superglue on each end of the strip and form it into a ring use a heatgun or hair-dryer if it gives you trouble forming it.
Heating up the silicone allows it to form easier. Once it dries in place, fit it over top of one of the wooden cutouts and glue the underside of the LED ring to the cutout, ensuring that they are one piece right now.
Whichever option you choose to do, repeat it for the other 7 LED rings. I sprayed a diffuser over top of each of my LED rings, but that may not be needed as I decided to put a diffuser over top of the whole table anyways.
So it's completely optional. There are 4 LED rings which are used with the ball washers. Don't add a wood cutout to each ball washer LED ring as they will be fitting around a small piece of ABS pipe used with the ball washer.
Just set them to side once you have them made. If you are just going to modify a table that you purchased somewhere else, you can skip these instructions.
These are just the instructions for how I built my table, one could actually just buy a plastic table from Wal-Mart and modify that to suit their needs.
I don't have a lot of pictures showing my table build so I will resort to using my Sketchup CAD drawings to better explain how the table goes together.
The Sketchup drawing does not show where each screw hole is, but I'm going to assume that if you're building this table that you can handle that otherwise just ask and I'll draw up a quick sketch!
Make sure to drill pilot holes before threading in each screw or you will probably end up cracking the wood! It's a pretty basic table, the overall size of it will come out to 24"x96"x4" without the legs, railing and acrylic sheet.
Here is a list of the following parts that are needed:. Following the photos above, attach all 4 sides to the 24"x96" bottom base of the plywood.
Secure each piece with multiple screws from the bottom of the table up into each side piece of the table. Make sure to drill pilot holes or you will crack the side pieces.
After drilling the pilot hole and before putting the screw in, use a countersink bit or just a large drill bit and countersink the hole so that the head of the screw is not sticking above the surface of the wood.
Now add the braces. We will use these holes for routing the cabling. Install these braces inside of the table at Put a strip of weatherproof tape on each piece of wood that makes up the top of the base.
Once you've got the base of the table built, you need to attach the 72" long hinge across the top and bottom of the table.
I recommend drilling out the ball washer holes on the lid prior to installing the hinge but it can be done either way.
Measure 12" in from one end of the table, line up the hinge with the lid and base of the table, drill a pilot hole for each screw and then thread each screw in and secure the hinge.
Once the hinge is on, open the lid up to a point just before it is perpendicular to the base, then secure a strong piece of wire I used silicone tubing so that it has give between the base of the table and the lid.
This ensures that the table lid won't over extend and fall to the other side, possibly causing damage. I plan to swap out the hinge with some cupboard like hinges that will be hidden on the inside of the table and still allow it to open up.
This hinge is an eyesore but it gets the job done for now. In this step we will be adding supports for the acrylic sheet.
This ensures that the sheet does not bend or bow on the table. We also have to cut out four notches on each side rail to accommodate the size of the LED rings.
The photos above are pretty much crucial to this step and will explain how to do this much better than I can through text. Attach the rail to the table temporarily and then take one LED ring and go over top of each location.
Trace around the portion of the ring that intersects with the rail with a pencil. Do this for all four LEDs on the rail and then take the rail over to your drill press.
Use an 89mm 3. Put a piece of scrap wood underneath the rail and clamp the rail to it once the first notch is lined up. Proceed to cut out the notch.
Do this for the other three notches on the rail, taking care to keep the rail supported as it will get weaker with each notch cut out.
To save time on the second rail, take the one you just completed and set it on top of the uncompleted rail. Line them up together, clamp them together and trace each notch onto unfinished piece.
Then repeat the process at the drill press to cut out the rest of the notches on the second piece. Once finished, attach each side rail and end rail to the table.
Install each LED ring, drilling a small hole to fit the connector and wire underneath the lid. Now we just have to finish the supports on the inside of the table.
If you are painting your table, now is a good time to paint the supports. Measure in Measure the mirrored support to the edge and ensure that it is centered.
Secure each support to the table and countersink each hole. I ended up adding these supports when I finished my table which you will see in the photos above.
I provide many options to lay out the LED grid but I will cut down on some of the photos and make things more clear. It is similar to option 1 where you have to mount each LED into the tables lid but it also utilizes the capabilities of a router.
Instead of spending a ton of time wire wrapping each LED lead, you can just cut out straight tracks in a grid-like formation and lay copper tape in each track.
I found this to be the fastest way for me to create this painstaking LED grid. Use the last of the photos to get a clearer understanding of option 3.
It is, arguably, the coolest feature of the table but also the most boring to build. In this step, I will show three options to build the LED grid.
The first option requires drilling a hole into the table for each LED, setting it into the table and gluing it in place. Then underneath the lid of the table, we have to solder each row and column connection for each LED.
We then finish off the grid by connecting the grid to the pin breakout PCB so that it can be interfaced with the master PCB. However, it will take you a few hours to complete less time than option 2 though.
The second option is what I chose to use with this particular table. This step is similar to the first option except we create a jig to hold the LED grid instead of actually attaching the LEDs to the table.
We then wire up the whole grid in the jig, attach the connector and then pour liquid silicone around the connections to completely encase the wiring of the LED grid.
This allows us to be able to remove the LED grid from the table or fold up the LED grid so that it has a smaller footprint and can be shipped easier.
This way is more expensive and more difficult as one has to purchase the liquid silicone from a supplier I found mine on AliExpress , have the required equipment to degas the silicone and then spend the extra time prepping and pouring the silicone.
In this step I will explain how to do the second option but if you choose to use the first option, just copy the following instructions except instead of mounting your LEDs in a jig, drill out the grid on the lid of your table and superglue or hot-glue the LEDs in place on the lid.
Then flip the table over and do the exact same wiring as I explain in this step. Complete the wiring and connector and then you're done.
You obviously will stop short of pouring any silicone. You need the following pieces to make the jig:. Pick one corner of the bottom piece of plywood and measure in Mark the location and then measure straight across from that mark Keep going at Repeat the same process for the rows and you'll have your grid drawn out.
Take a 5mm drill bit and make a hole for each LED in the jig. Take each 25mm border and arrange them flush along the outer edge of the jig.
One end will have a space in the middle for the pin PCB connector. The jig is now made. Next, place the first column of LEDs in the jig and take care to ensure that they are all placed in the jig with the same orientation.
Bend down each anode lead one each of the 12 LEDs and then take some solderable enamel coated wire and wrap it around the anode of the first LED two times a wire wrap tool works great for this.
Repeat the process for each column and then do the same for the twelve rows connecting cathodes on the rows.
It is critical that you put a bit of slack in the wire between each LED, otherwise the wires can break if the silicone LED grid is rolled up. Once the grid is completely wired, we will need to get some wire to hook up the pin breakout PCB to the grid.
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